Peasant Chic

Clothing for Country Living Using Vernacular Designs and Techniques

People the world over who work in fields, making crafts to sell to feed their families and do other simple work need clothing that is simple to make from readily available materials, easy to care for, and comfortable to wear.

It also needs to be perfectly suited to the local climate, easily washed and quick to dry, and simple to layer as the needs of the temperature change.

The vernacular designs of peasants need to be readily available, and quick to make. Using the widths of the locally woven fabric to cut in simple designs and then embellishing them with embroidery or other fabric enhancements makes them distinguishable wherever you go.

I call this 'peasant chic'.  The best garments are those that  fit well, no matter the changes in your size or shape, because they are going to last a long time and become your favorites.

I've decided that now I'm in my 60's, I no longer need to cater to fashion. I can wear what I like, and that usually means taking peasant clothing from other countries and redesigning it to fit me.

Like the patchwork 'aikido anorak' that I wear almost every day. It's the right weight (partway between denim and sweatshirt fabric) and it's long so it covers my less attractive parts (belly and bum) and it's got a pocket.

That's my main driver in making this type of clothing; either a roo pocket, or smaller ones to put a few mints and a whistle into, or two lower pockets to put all the detritus of the day; phone, dog treats, afformentioned whistle, clicker, phone and so on.

The next project that I took on is a boiled wool jerkin. I mistakenly bought only 1.5 meters, which is enough for a long vest with two pockets, but not enough for sleeves which was on the original design.

I adapted the design from the one piece blanket vest, with some major changes.

The shawl collar is built in one part with the front and back, and there are only two seams, the shoulders, which by extension, are part of the collar attachment at the back of the neck.

Boiled wool is perfect for using blanket stitch to attach the pieces and the bind the edges. It's a technique I've used before on the yurt shirt.

Now it will need buttons.

Designing this type of clothing is a lot of fun. 

I set myself the limitations of the width of the fabric, and the fewest seams.  This is so you could use the selvedge edge of the fabric in case you don't have access to a serger, and to make it simple to cut out and construct.

These designs often use square pieces rather than complicated curves.  I also like patchwork of all kinds which gives the opportunity of showcasing a special piece of vintage or hand made fabric if there's not enough to make into a dedicated project.

I often use fabric that was purchased for a different purpose, like blankets made of wool for a patchwork seamless vest.

There are usually no zippers, but some of my designs do use customized buttons, to make the garment completely unique.

The latest version of the seamless vest has 'mud buttons' made of clay with a leaf design impressed into it, but I've also used wood slice buttons or ones made from antlers,  either slices or toggles.

With peasant chic, it's perfect acceptable to take an existing piece of clothing that has served you for years, and remake it, either by remembering the details that you treasured, or by taking the item apart to use as a pattern.

If you find that an item of clothing that you really like is too small, add a strip of fabric under the arms, all the way down the body, adjusting the width of the arms so they aren't too wide. This gives favorite garments a new life, eliminating landfill disposal.

Typical peasant garments of the past were embellished with embroidery, pleats or smocking. These simple costumes were a display of the skill of the handcrafters.

Vernacular clothing evolves, but only when necessary.  In some areas of the world, generations of people wear the same style of dress, maybe changing only the shoes and other accessories.

So what type of clothing will your capsule wardrobe contain next?  Will you take a garment design that has stood the test of time and re-imagine it in a different, modern fabric that is perfect for your lifestyle?

Make a super simple dress and embellish it with some antique lace, made by hand? Or make a sarong, poncho or serape out of a modern material for an up-to-date look and to make it easier to care for?

I'm in the process of making a snuggly blanket coat - all one piece except for the pockets.  It's two layers, one is a wool blanket from the thrift store, the other is a jaquard woven piece that's in my very favorite color - blue.  Should be cozy!

---

Sign up here for all the updates;

Popular Pages;